It is so cold. All night we were cold. The air is freezing the end of my nose, the only thing sticking out of my sleeping bag. The thought of having to get up and take of my sleep shirt and put on my hiking clothes is overwhelming and numbing my brain to inaction. But nature is calling and you just have to be brave and conquer the elements. That transition, though is always the hardest. Someone is has gone out and I hear that them say there is 4 inches of snow on the ground! We knew it could happen, we are in the Smokies above 6000ft. we knew it could snow. But it is 12F/-11C and knowing and being in it doesn't make it any more comfortable. 

Big effort, up, dressed, bags packed, fingers frozen, water frozen in the water bottles. Shelter mates give us water water, warming hands over the stove as water boils. Porridge never tasted so good., big cup of hot tea, We have to get going because we are freezing. There is really at least 4 inches of snow on the ground. 

We are on the trail and the sky is clear. The trees are laden with snow, it is beautiful, but the rhododendrons are not happy. The mud is frozen so the going is easy. Our friend of the last few shelters, Slip is with us and we are making good progress. We are headed for New Found Gap. No one says it but we are hoping for Trail Magic. We arrive the parking lot is empty save for a few cars with snow on them, overnight hikers (they picked a really cold time to go to the mountains.) Our shelter mates are here they are expecting a pick up to Gatlinburg but have found out the road is closed. They are hanging out in the bathroom building which is heated, we join them. Flush toilets an unexpected luxury. They have removed the sinks to prevent thru hikers from taking a bath in them, so inconsiderate!

The is a lot of noise coming from the parking lot. We step out to see hundreds of people in tee shits and shorts rushing around in the sunshine taking photos of the mountains. Gatlinburg is a tourist destination of choice, it is spring break and there is snow on the Smokies. We can't believe the pandemonium. 

We are approached by a lovely blond lady who offers us a sandwich and coffe. This is Beth and her husband Bernie who have been driving up from Florida every year for the past 8 to celebrate their anniversary by providing Trail Magic to thru-hikers for a full week. Incredible. The back of their SUV is like a general store and they are giving everything away for free. It is wonderful to know what kindness and generosity exists in the world. 

We are finally back on the trail and hoping to put in another 10 miles. It is spectacularly beautiful although still cold. Suddenly Arlene can't lift one of her legs. She has likely pulled a hip flexor in an earlier fall and just can't do it. We are standing on the trail trying to decide what to do. Several of our friends who overnighted in Gatlinburg are passing us. Finally, we are say a tearful goodbye to Slip who needs to press on and we are headed back down the trail to the parking lot. I call Beth and ask who might give us a ride, she says look for a guy in a white pickup his name is God Speed, he will help. There are a lot of vehicles in the lot, but God Speed is obvious. We explain we need to go to Gatlinburg and rest for the day. Right behind him in a VW Golf are two women whom we passed just a half hour before on the trail. They say they will take us. As we get organized, Edith and Mel offer us a bed and company for the evening. What trail angels there are here in Gatlinburg. We are enjoying a wonderful evening. Pizza out at the Italian place, clothes washed, a shower, life it so grand!

Really there should be far more stories in the news about the good, kind, generous, selfless people in the world who just offer strangers warmth and comfort from the bottom of their hearts. Thank you Beth and Bernie, Edith and Mel, you made our day better than we could ever have dreamed.